Summer is so eagerly looked forward to because of the riches of visual delights it brings. Not the least of these is the myriad of birds that are drawn to the birdhouses that we've erected, and the safe havens our eaves provide for nest-building. Watching the mating process, the nest building, and eventually the first day of flight are treasures of Nature in which we are allowed to partake.

Just as we need to hydrate during the warm season, so do birds. One way that we can pay back to Nature is to provide safe and clean drinking and bathing arenas for them.

If you have a deck, this is an ideal place to set a bird bath--particularly if it's close to a hose for easy daily cleaning. It will draw birds that are not just visiting your feeders for seed; these include vireos, warblers, orioles, bluebirds, thrushes, buntings, and even more. Plant gladiolus around your deck and the hummingbirds will be able to eat and drink; there are few greater pleasures than watching these marvelous little birds, especially when they seem suspended in space.

Traditional bird baths consist of a basin on a pedestal, but the available colors, textures, materials and finishes are so varied that you can easily find one consistent with the style of your garden. Choose one with gradually sloping sides that provides several different depths of water.

Small birds, such as chickadees, need water less than an inch deep while larger birds like robins will bathe in 2 inches of water. With a solid rim on which to perch, the birds can more easily tip their heads to drink. But they also need to bathe, which is why we encourage you to have a basin with a slope that will allow for both drinking and bathing.

Why not consider a clamp-on bird bath that attaches to your deck's railing and has both shallow and deeper areas that accommodate birds of all sizes? One caveat--glazing may be more attractive to our sensibilities, but it can be a slippery surface, so consider first a bath made of pottery, stone, or cement composition.

The most important aspect of providing water for our avian friends is that it be clean water in a clean environment. Do a daily scrubbing on your bird bath, and refill with fresh water. If there are tough stains, use a very little bleach mixed with water, scrub, and rinse THOROUGHLY before you add the fresh water. Adding this task to your daily regimen will prevent algae from forming. And if you've placed your bird bath close to your garden hose, it will be even easier to provide safe hydration.

There are many bird baths from which to choose; we've listed a few of the ones with unique qualities.

• Just like children, birds are drawn to the sight and sound of dripping or splashing water. Dripper bird baths run a tube from the faucet to the dripper with an adjustable valve that enables you to make the drip very slow, thus conserving water while still attracting the birds.

• Solar fountain bird baths contain a solar panel that circulates the water with a pump. They are energy efficient, but functional only during hours of bright sunlight.

• Misting bird baths are a particular favorite of hummingbirds who fly through them to bathe. If nearby leaves get wet, some birds will bathe by rubbing against them.

No matter which kind of bird bath you choose, place it in the open so that its visitors can watch for predators, but also provide landing spots within 10 feet of the bath. And then feel good about yourself for having made Life in the Wild just a little bit easier for your garden's denizens.

A backyard retreat means something different for each of us. It could be a quiet corner in the shade with a comfortable chair for reading, or a chaise longue in the sun. Perhaps it's a table for two for quiet dining or a large table seating 6-8 near an outdoor kitchen--perfect for large dinner parties. Whatever your needs and desires, it helps to include other features such as a bubbling fountain, koi pond, or trees and flowers in a container arrangement.

Most of these ideas can be incorporated in part, no matter what the special area is for this special retreat. It could be a balcony, tiny patio garden or large backyard. Everyone can have a private customized retreat.

When designing a garden retreat, first take time to envision your dream retreat. A multitude of ideas should come pouring into your mind as you begin to envision your future garden retreat. If you are coming up blank, consider what your answers are to these questions:

1. Do you want a retreat for serenity after hectic days at work; do you want a space designed for entertaining?
2. How much space do you have? Is this a patio transformation, a small grotto along the side of your house, or the entire backyard?
3. Whatever your desire, next consider what "look" you would like--be it tropical, formal, informal cottage garden, or Asian.
4. Color and texture choices: Color and textures can be added in many different ways: through the plant foliage, fabrics, walls and flooring (you could paint them!), pottery, statuary, garden art and more.
5. Sound: Quiet water, bubbling water, splashing water, birds singing and/or leaves rustling in the breeze?
6. Water feature: Do you want a fountain, pool, pond, pond with waterfall?

There is much to consider when planning your very own backyard retreat. Join us at here at the garden center. Wander through our fountains, pottery and plants--and you'll be sure to have your own backyard retreat in short order.

But the real story is that the psyllid has been found in Mexico, Hawaii, Texas, Louisiana, Georgia, Alabama, South Carolina, Florida and most recently, in California. Infected trees produce green, bitter, misshapen fruit that is unsuitable for sale as either fresh fruit or juice, and most infected trees die within a few years.

In June of 2008, the psyllid was spotted right across the border in Tijuana, Mexico. A few months later, it was detected in San Diego and Imperial counties. HLB is ravaging the citrus industry in Florida, and we all can help to put an end to this scourge by following some basic common sense moves.

Stopping the importation of infested plants is our first line of defense. A quarantine has been implemented on citrus plants and close relatives of citrus such as orange jasmine or Indian curry leaves, that arrive in airplanes, ships, trucks, cars or by mail, shipped from other states and countries.

Believed to have originated in China in the late 1800's, citrus greening disease shows the following symptoms:
• Blotchy mottling of leaves, and yellowing of leaves on a single shoot or branch
• Small, lopsided, bitter fruit that remains green even when ripe
• Twig dieback
• Stunted, sparsely foliated trees that may bloom off-season

Government and industry are taking steps to stop the spread of citrus greening and the Asian citrus psyllid that carries it. They are ramping up inspection of host plants at international ports, state lines, airports, and mail-sorting facilities.

Many areas in the United States have been put under quarantine, including Florida, Louisiana and Georgia. When infected trees are found, they are removed to prevent the spread to healthy trees. And there is a serious implementation of awareness campaigns at the national and state level to educate the public about this very real threat.

You can help by not moving citrus out of areas under quarantine for citrus greening disease. Do not buy host plants online unless you can guarantee that the plant is not from a quarantined area. If you own citrus plants, inspect them on a regular basis for the disease, and the psyllids themselves. Look for eggs, often nestled in crevices of unfolded leaves. Twisted and curling shoot tips, sooty mold, and white waxy deposits on the leaves are all signs of psyllid damage. If you detect the insect, or an infected plant, report it to the California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) by calling 1.800.491.1899.
 
The insect (ACP) can be controlled with Bayer Fruit, Citrus and Vegetable Insect Control.  But until a treatment or a cure is found for the deadly disease (HLB), stopping it's spread by halting the movement of plants is our best hope of saving America’s citrus.  All of the citrus that Green Thumb sells is treated and certified pest and disease free by the CDFA.

Jason Moine
Green Thumb Garden Pro

If you have an herb garden you know what a great pleasure it is to have access to your own home-grown herbs--ones that are exactly to your taste, rather than a generic supermarket blend. Drying or freezing some of your herbs can give you that pleasure year-round. Along with the taste advantage, your own herbs are much, much cheaper.

The method of preparing herbs for storage that gives you the best flavor and fragrance is air-drying. But if you don't have a warm, dry area that is suitable, or you have herbs that aren't suited for air-drying, don't despair! There are other methods that work almost as well.

Natural Air-drying:
Sturdy, low-moisture herbs are best suited for air-drying. Some examples are bay leaves, dill, oregano, marjoram, parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme. This method is also effective for large batches of herbs. Basil, lemon balm, and most mints have high moisture content--these can mold if not dried quickly.

Air-Dry Method 1:

• Cut large stems/branches from mature plants. Shake them to get rid of any insects, then remove any damaged leaves.
• Rinse them with cool water and gently pat them dry with towels or paper towels. Turn the branches upside down and take off some of the leaves along the lower stem (the top, after you've turned them upside down). Gather five or six branches together in a bunch.
• Get a large paper bag and make several holes in it for ventilation. Put the bunch upside down inside the bag, gather the opening around the leafless stem ends, and tie securely. The bag will protect the bunch from dust and other pollutants. (You can skip the bag if drying for sachets - but keep them away from direct sunlight; that will tend to reduce the fragrance.)
• Hang the bag in a warm airy place and leave it alone for several weeks.
• When the leaves are dry, check for any signs of mold growth; if you find mold, discard the whole bunch! If the bunch is clean, strip the leaves off of the stems and toss the stems. Store the whole leaves in small airtight containers (plastic "zip" bags are great). Label them and store them in a cool, dry, dark place.

Air-Dry Method 2:

• The second way to dry herbs is to spread them out to dry.
• With fine-leafed herbs such as oregano and thyme, simply remove the foliage from stems and spread the leaves on a cookie sheet or piece of clean window screen and set in a warm, dry, airy place away from direct sun.
• Stir them up every few days to turn them over. Once the leaves feel crisp, you can store them in an airtight container for later use.

Drying in an Oven:
This works well for herbs that tend to mold if not dried quickly--but can also be used if you don't have a warm, dry, well-ventilated (and convenient) place to hang herbs.

For oven-drying, heat the oven to a low heat (150-200F), place the herbs on a baking sheet in the oven, keep the oven door open and bake the herbs until they are dry. This will take several hours, maybe longer if you are drying high-moisture herbs. Keep an eye on them--you want them dried, not burned!

Some people dry herbs in the microwave--we don't advise that, as it takes out a lot of the flavor and fragrance. If you must dry this way, put about 4 branches in the oven between paper towels. Heat for a minute or two on high. If the herbs are not brittle and dry when removed from the oven, repeat for 30 seconds more each time until dry.

Freezing Herbs:
Don't freeze herbs to use as garnish--they may become limp and unsightly. Some herbs that freeze well: basil, borage, chives, dill, lemongrass, mint, oregano, sage, savory, sorrel, tarragon, and thyme.

If they are to be used in soups or stews, you can do a quick and handy freeze in an ice cube tray. Chop up the leaves and put a teaspoon of the herb in each section. Fill with water and put the tray in the freezer. To use, simply remove the pre-measured herb in the ice cube, and drop as many as you need in your soup or stew.

You can also simply put a few bunches in a freezer bag or other container and put them in the freezer.

With summer here, garden herbs are kicking into high gear, producing lots of pleasing, aromatic foliage that is great for cooking and potpourris. Freshly harvested leaves are wonderful for cooking, but you might want to preserve some to use later in the year or to create sachets that will fill your home with wonderful scents.

When the weather is hot and dry and there is no measurable rain, even rookie gardeners are aware that most plants will not survive without regular watering. Unfortunately, just giving them a squirt with the water hose isn't going to do much to relieve their stress. Wise gardeners give their plants the amount of water each one needs in ways that save time, effort and water.

It is important to use the right equipment. Much water can be saved in the summer by watering each part of the garden by a method appropriately suited for it. Briefly, hand sprinkling is fine for sprouting seeds, but all other watering should be done with conventional irrigation systems or drip systems. Reserve watering by hose for filling furrows and basins around trees and bushes, when these are not equipped with bubblers. (When you water this way, put the hose right down on the ground, and let the water sink in slowly.)

In summer (or anytime for that matter), it is best to irrigate deeply but less frequently to encourage plants to send down deeper roots that are protected from the summer heat. Vegetables and annual flowers, though, will have to be watered more frequently since they don't produce deep root systems. For most grass lawns, watering to the point of runoff every 2-3 days is sufficient. Always water your garden in the early morning hours between 4:00 AM and 8:00 AM to reduce water evaporation.

Be sure to give special care to plants in containers. Plants in containers often suffer at this time of the year. Water them frequently, especially plants in terra cotta pots. These porous containers “breathe” allowing water to evaporate faster than plastic or glazed ceramic pots. If you take good care of your plants in summer, you will be rewarded throughout the rest of the year.

The leaves on some of my plants are starting to turn brown. How can I tell if the cause is lack of water, or salt or chemical damage?

Answer:

That's fairly simple.

• If a plant is too dry, the tips of the leaves will turn brown. The longer without water, the farther down the leaf the burn will extend.
• If a plant is suffering from salt damage, the entire leaf edge will appear brown or dry.
• If it's chemical damage, the foliage will generally have burn spots all over the leaf surface.

And here are the usual causes:

• If a plant is too dry, it needs deeper or more frequent watering.
• Salt burn is most often caused by excessive fertilization.
• Chemical damage results from weed killer drifting onto a plant, a chemical solution being mixed stronger than label recommendations, or a spray being applied to (or to near to) a plant that is sensitive to that spray.

Please note that all three scenarios have man-made causes.