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Edition 5.41 Supergarden.com News October 13th, 2005



Lake Forest - El Toro
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Quotation of the Week:

"I never had any other desire so strong, and so like to covetousness, as that one which I have had always, that I might be master at last of a small house and a large Garden."
— Abraham Cowley, The Garden, 1666

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Victory Gardens - Today?

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In the U.S., during World War I, we called them 'War Gardens.' They became 'Victory Gardens' in World War II. And they saved this country (and others) from a severe food shortage. It has been estimated that, in WWII, home and community gardens produced more than one-third of all vegetables grown in the United States and provided about 70 percent of the vegetables eaten by Americans at home.

Victory Gardens came in every shape and size. Governments and corporations promoted this call for self-reliance. People in all areas, rural and urban alike, worked the soil to raise food for their families, friends, and neighbors. Victory gardening enabled more supplies to be shipped to our troops around the world.

Nowadays, there are still remnants of these gardens in our backyards. Some are just home vegetable gardens. Others are yards filled with fruit trees, citrus, apricot, apples, avocado, etc. In some cities, they are community urban gardens. But our large farms are so efficient that it's unlikely we need any victory gardens anymore — or do we?

The barrel price of oil has risen a dollar or more since last year, and it is unlikely to go back down to its previous level. Not only are we paying more at the pump, we are paying more for anything that must be shipped from one point to another, and food is one of those things. In addition, oil is used in producing plastics, for heating and in many other ways. We won't starve, but we will be paying more for many things, and budgets will be tighter.

A home vegetable garden is a good way to save money, in more ways than one. If you like your vegetables really fresh, it's necessary to shop more often. Unless you live within walking or bicycling distance of a place that sells fresh vegetables (or take buses), you are using gas to do that shopping. And if that isn't a good enough argument for 'growing your own,' the taste of freshly-picked produce will convince you, if you just try it once! Plucking fresh veggies or fruit from your own garden, just in time for that evening's meal, will give you a huge sense of pride, not to mention the unbelievable sweet freshness — even better than getting them from your local produce stand. Those of you who already grow your own vegetables can help by giving out a bit of your fresh fruits and vegetables to your neighbors — that alone may convince them to try it!

Many people resist growing food at home — for many reasons.

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1) They think an attractive garden must be only decorative — and although many decorative flowers are edible (rose petals, for example), most people don't eat them. But many food plants are also decorative — eggplants have a very pretty flower, many herbs are grown as decorative plants, and pepper plants are often sold as ornamentals. Admittedly, tomato plants are generally unprepossessing— but you aren't limited to tomatoes!

2) Some people are low on space— apartment dwellers, for instance. Well...you'd be surprised what can be grown in a pot on your front patio or on a balcony (or even indoors). Some people even grow tomatoes upside-down as hanging plants. Also, in urban environments, community gardens are becoming more popular. Find out if there is one— or interest in one— in your area.

3) Some think growing their own food is just too much work. About half of the ones I know who say that belong to a health club for exercise...no comment.

4) Then there are those, especially in northern areas, who say, "Winter is just around the corner— too late now." Not really. See the above comment on growing indoors, and consider cold-weather crops like kale.

So, save some money, save some energy, and enjoy the great taste of freshly picked produce - plant your own 'victory garden' and encourage your friends to do the same!

Pruning 101

Pruning is an art form. Unfortunately, many gardeners haven't acquired the basics, let alone mastery. So, let's start with the basics.

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Understanding how to prune requires an understanding of how plants grow, plus a little plant taxonomy. Don't panic... those of you who shy away from biological terms. This will be Pruning 101. Determining where and/or when to make a cut will help create the future shape of your plants. Some cuts are made near a growth bud. The subsequent growth varies, depending on the location of that bud. There are three bud types.

Terminal buds grow at the tip of a shoot (branch), and are what cause the branch to grow longer. There is a "messenger" chemical produced at the site of that bud, a hormone, that travels down the stem and tells other buds lower on the stem "Don't you grow, I"m busy here making the branch longer!"

Lateral buds are located along the branch at leaf attachments. Their job is to produce sideways growth that makes the plant bushy. But remember, these buds will stay inactive as long as the terminal buds are busy adding length to the branch. They can be activated, though. If the terminal bud is cut off, there is less of that "messenger" chemical (hormone) and the lateral buds will come out of dormancy and begin to grow.

Latent buds are lying quietly and dormantly underneath the bark. If a branch is broken or cut off near a latent bud, another branch will grow.

There are four main types of pruning. (This is fun, isn't it!)

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Thinning, sometimes called 'lacing', opens up a plant and stimulates the least amount of regrowth. These cuts direct growth, eliminate competing or old branches, and reduce the overall size of your plant. Thinning removes cross-branching to eliminate branch competition and allow for better air circulation. When thinning, you are removing an entire branch back to the 'parent' branch from which it grew; you are NOT cutting a branch mid-way down its length. This technique reduces the build of a plant without stimulating new growth.

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Heading removes just parts of a branch, not the whole branch, as in thinning.These cuts can be made back at a bud, or to a twig that is too small to take over a terminal bud role. Heading stimulates the clustered growth of lateral buds just below the cut. Can you picture the result? It will make the plant more bushy. Initially, the plant will be smaller. However, that won't last for long. That "chemical messenger" will initiate lots of new growth from the lateral buds in very short order. This technique will ruin the shape of a woody plant. Use this technique when your goal is to induce that vigorous branch growth... maybe in a bare spot on a tree, or to increase blooms on a rose bush, or rejuvenate old shrubs. Save it for those situations.

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Shearing is an indiscriminate form of heading and does not involve cuts being made at a growing point (bud). It is indiscriminate cutting back to create a smooth surface (be it squared or rounded) on a plant (think 'topiary'). Some plants lend themselves to shearing - such as abelia or boxwood. Other plants do not tolerate this type of pruning, and will become unhealthy over time.

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Pinching is the removal of the terminal bud to stimulate lateral branching and increased flowering. This is commonly used with annuals and perennials. It can be done with your fingernails or dead-heading clippers.

So there you go. Your "Pruning 101" lesson. Most pruning in our gardens will be done in fall and winter. Proper pruning is essential in a good health plan for your plants.

'The Green Team.'
Green Thumb Garden Pros
 

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Recipe of the Week: Creamy Cucumbers

What you need:

  • 1 cup mayonnaise
  • 1/4 cup sugar
  • 1/4 cup vinegar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 4 cups sliced cucumbers

Step by Step:

Combine mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar and salt in a medium bowl.

Add cucumbers; stir to coat.

Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours. (Yes, it's just that easy!)

Yield: 4 servings

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