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When choosing carrot varieties, consider the heaviness of your soil--sow short stubby carrots in heavy clay soils and longer tapered ones in looser sandy soil. Tips of the tap roots will grow four to six inches further down than the edible portion.
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Be a Guest Gardener:
Gardeners love to learn from other gardeners "over the fence." We would love to include a tour and/or an article from one of our readers! |
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FEATURED QUOTE :
"Nature, to be commanded, must be obeyed."
~Francis Bacon
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One of the most graceful plants that can enhance your outdoor garden is also one of the easiest houseplants to grow: the calla lily, which isn't really a lily, nor is it a calla, although it is related to the latter genus. In reality, the calla lily is the common name for the zantedeschia genus; just as our family trees can be at times daunting in their complexities, so too with our favorite flowers.
The genus calla was originally named by the famous Swedish botanist Carolus Linnaeus, but when the German botanist Karl Koch realized that it had become apparent that the genus needed to be split up, he honored his fellow Italian botanist Giovanni Zantedeschi by naming the new genus after him.
The Europeans quickly recognized the value of this new flower, and it became a popular favorite for both weddings (as it signifies magnificence and beauty) and funerals.
What a unique and lovely houseplant the calla lily is! It loves 70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the temperature at which most households are kept. Add a sunny location, evenly moist soil, and a water soluble fertilizer applied according to package directions during periods of new growth, and you'll have a very happy member of your family!
If you are starting from bulbs, plant them 2 to 3 inches deep, and space them 12 inches apart. You might want to employ several containers if you are enjoying them as houseplants.
As the blooms begin to wither, remove them, and gradually reduce watering until the foliage dies. Rest the tubers for 2 to 3 months without moisture, then repot and lightly water until the new plant is several inches above the soil line.
If you prefer them indoors, no matter where you live, you will be able to enjoy near year-long blooms. Or, you can also enjoy them indoors, then move them outside during warm weather for garden enhancement.
We know that we can enjoy this fascinating flower indoors. Now we're going to talk about how to enjoy the calla outdoors. Perennial bulbs, or rhizomes, calla lilies can grow to a height of from 1.5 to 4 feet with long, rich green leaves. While white is normally associated with this flower, they actually come in a wide variety of colors, from white to pink, purple, yellow, orange, and even black!
They are tolerant of most pests and diseases, and are suitable for cut flower gardens, or planting en masse in beds, low borders, patio pots or planters. As with most plants, they will appreciate a cover of mulch, which holds in the moisture and keeps weeds at bay.
While their normal blooming time is listed as late spring, this northern gardener finds that they thrive throughout the summer outdoors, until close to the first deep frost. If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, they are perennials outdoors and will not require indoor storage.
In colder climes, after the foliage has withered away, dig up the long-fingered tubers, storing them in a breathable bag in perlite, peat moss, or vermiculite. When frost danger has passed, you may then transplant them outside, fertilizing with a 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 mixture.
One caveat: as calla lilies contain a poisonous ingredient called oxalic acid, keep children and pets away from your plants. With this simple precaution, you'll have a perennial that you may enjoy indoors and then place outdoors after the ground has warmed. |
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Cindy Morgan
Green Thumb Garden Pros |
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Are you one of those people who claim that they have a “black thumb”? Do you honestly believe that all plants are better off not being in your care? Well, there is one plant that anyone can grow, that is treasured for its color, leaf shape, ability to grow in both sun and shade, and even for its aroma.
An herbaceous perennial, the hosta is the answer for every garden. Because they come in a wide range of colors that include blue, gold, green and chartreuse, grouping them will bring variety to what one might fear would be a monochromatic garden. Choose variegated next to solid-colored; ‘Blue Moon’ has heart-shaped, bluish green leaves. A small hosta plant, it stays under 1’ tall with a slightly greater spread. ‘Halcyon’ will grow to a height of 14” with a 2’ spread, and has lilac-blue flowers. Add medio-variegated with marginally-variegated hostas. In the former, the lighter color occurs in the center of the leaf--‘Undulata Variegata’ is a delightful example. Reaching 1-2’ in height with the same width, it will produce lavender blooms in early summer. The ‘Patriot’ is a marginally variegated hosta, which means that its leaves are green in the center and white on the edges. It will reach a height of 1-1 ½’ with a 2-2 1/2’ width, with lavender blooms that appear later than those of the ‘Undulata Variegata’ . . . plant three of each, about one foot apart in a triangle so they will grow together as a single aged clump and you’ve got color, variegation, and a longer bloom season. You should also plant in an 8” high mound to accentuate height. To further add variety, include hostas with sword-shaped leaves, heart-shaped leaves, flat, concave, smooth and “seersuckered” leaves, which are bubbled.
Known as shade-lovers, hostas still need light to photosynthesize. Early morning sun and filtered afternoon shade is the ideal for those varieties that prefer less sun. However, there are many varieties that prefer a stronger sun, as long as they are watered and mulched. The Hosta ‘Plantaginea’ will bear highly fragrant white flowers that bloom in late summer if it is given sufficient sunlight. A quick rule of thumb is that hostas with yellow leaves or fragrant flowers can stand more sun than hostas with green, blue or white leaves. A short list of hostas with sun tolerance potential follows:
• BLUES: ‘Blue Angel’, ‘Elegans’, ‘Halcyon’, ‘Krossa Regal’.
• VARIEGATED: ‘Francee’, ‘Inniswood’, ‘Minuteman’, ‘Patriot’, ‘Regal Splendor’, ‘So Sweet’, H. undulata ‘Albomarginata’.
• GREEN: ‘Invincible’, ‘Pearl Lake’.
• YELLOW: ‘August Moon’, ‘Sum and Substance’, ‘Sun Power’.
• FRAGRANT: H. plantaginea, ‘Aphrodite’, ‘Fragrant Bouquet’, ‘Fried Green Tomatoes’, ‘Guacamole’, ‘Honeybells’, ‘Invincible’, ‘Royal Standard’, ‘Summer Fragrance’, ‘So Sweet’, and ‘Sugar & Cream’.
We recommend that every hosta garden contain the ‘Sagae’, the Hosta of the Year in 2000, a gorgeous plant that can grow to 4 to 5’ in width with a height of 30”.
Nearly indestructible, these marvels of the garden still need well-amended soil, deep watering as their root systems may run 18” long, and mulching to reduce loss of soil moisture. To prepare them for winter, first update your gardening journal to reflect the new hostas that you’ve planted, with name and light preferences. If you’re not obsessive and prefer to be surprised each year with what plants first peek out of the soil, for the first year, make a notation of the plant’s name on a popsicle stick or a plastic tag, and bury it in the ground; this way, if the plant doesn’t seem to be thriving where you’ve planted it, you can move it to another area of the garden where the conditions are different.
Make one last check for pest problems, most notably voles and foliar nematodes. If the latter is noted, remove the damaged plants from the garden. Next, after a couple of cold nights, remove the foliage and discard. Do not compost. Clearing the yellowed leaves will not only make your garden look neat and well-cared for--it will help decrease slug problems, fungal infections, and foliar nematodes the following year. Stop watering as hostas prefer to be dry during the winter, and any newly planted hostas will go dormant and be discouraged in throwing up new leaves.
If you’ve thoroughly cleaned up the dead leaves, you can survey your domain with a true sense of satisfaction. And come the spring, the sturdy purple tips that are some of the first plants to peek up through the earth will signify the imminent return of your glorious hosta gardens. |
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Daylight Saving Time begins at 2 am on Sunday, March 14, 2010 so be sure to set your clocks forward one hour! Your clocks should be set from 2:00 a.m. local standard time, to 3:00 a.m. local daylight time.
Incidentally, not all places in the United States observe Daylight Saving Time; Hawaii and most of Arizona do not use it, and Indiana waited until 2006 to adopt the usage.
The original concept is attributed to Benjamin Franklin in 1784. In a whimsical letter to a French journal, he said that Parisians could save thousands of francs a year by waking up earlier during the summer because it would prevent them from having to buy so many candles to light the evening hours.
We remember to change our clocks by the phrase "Spring forward, fall back." As spring begins on March 20, 2010, a mere 12 days after the onset of Daylight Saving Time, why not embrace this season of renewal, and replace the batteries in all of your smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors. This simple act will reassure the safety of your family; properly working detectors save thousands of lives each year.
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Can you grow grass in shade?
Answer:
That depends on how much shade you actually have. Fescue types of grass will tolerate shade better than most grasses. You can also use a shady blend grass seed, but even shade-tolerant grasses need a certain amount of sunshine to grow. Ultimately, the way you manage your shady lawn is more important than which seed type you select.
Five practices that will help your shade tolerant grass survive in the shade:
- First, mow your grass higher. Grass in the shade should be cut approximately 1/2 to 1 inch higher than the grass growing in full sunlight. This will allow more leaf area to intercept the limited amount of sunlight.
- Second, fertilize less often, at half the normal amount so the grass won't try to grow what it can't support.
- Third, water more (and deeply) in the hot summer months, so the grass is not stressed by heat.
- Fourth, selectively prune and thin limbs of heavy shade producing trees to allow more light to reach your lawn. Remove all limbs below ten feet. Rake and remove leaves or needles before they accumulate.
- Finally, try to minimize traffic and activities in the shaded grass areas during the summer months. This will reduce the wear stress on the turf. If the grass is in a path where traffic cannot be avoided, place stepping-stones or pine bark to create a trail.
If you combine these suggestions, you should notice a much healthier lawn. If none of this works, consider replacing your shaded area with shade-loving flowers, groundcover, or mulch. |
| Have your buffalo wings without the mess! Serve this addicting dip with tortilla chips and celery sticks.
What You'll Need:
- 2 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
- 1 (12 fluid ounce) can or bottle hot chicken wing sauce
- 6 tablespoons butter
- 1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese, softened
- 1 (16 ounce) bottle blue cheese dressing
Step by Step:
- Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C).
- Place chicken in a pot with enough water to cover. Bring to a boil and cook 25 minutes, until chicken juices run clear. Drain liquid from pot and shred chicken. Mix wing sauce and butter into pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer 10 minutes.
- Spread cream cheese over the bottom of an 8x8 inch baking dish. Pour chicken mixture over cream cheese. Top with dressing.
- Bake 15 minutes in the preheated oven, until hot and bubbly.
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