William Cowper once wrote the now famous words, "Variety is the spice of life." This couldn't be truer in the garden. Nothing spices up a garden like plants with variegated foliage. Use too many and they'll make you dizzy. But placed in the background or strategically planted in the midst of the garden, variegated foliage can bring out the best in all of your plants.

Variegated plants come in a myriad of shapes and shades. From bold to subtle, there's something for every gardener's personal tastes. If it's a tree you're looking for, nothing steals the show like the 'Flamingo' box elder. It can be the centerpiece to build your entire garden around.

Many variegated plants make excellent hedges. Instead of hiding in the background, they provide a great starting point to planning a garden. Consider variegated English boxwood, 'Red Twig' dogwood, 'Gilt Edge' silverberry, euonymus, variegated English holly, variegated kohuhu, variegated mock orange, dappled willow or weigela. Many of these plants also look wonderful when planted individually to bring out a corner or become a focal point on a mound or garden island.

If a hedge is not your cup of tea but you still want to hide some of your fence line, a variegated bower vine or variegated potato vine will do an excellent job. For bursts of color and interest throughout your garden, consider variegated varieties of abelias, daylilies, licorice plants, phlox, mock orange, sage, stonecrop, weigela, New Zealand flax and ornamental grasses.

If your garden has shaded areas, don't worry. There are many great selections for areas with less sunlight. Many popular variegated plants prefer shade or partial shade.

No matter what your garden setting is, variegated plants not only look great but also add interest. We have a large selection of plants with unique foliage and variegated colors. Stop by soon and see the beauty of these plants in person. You wont be able to resist them!

Long valued for their profuse sprays of flowers from spring to early summer, coral bells (heucheras) are now also being valued for their bold, showy foliage. This genus of perennials has received a lot of attention from horticultural breeding programs in the last decade, and the result is an introduction of wonderful variations in foliage colors, leaf shapes, and flower colors.

While most original coral bell selections produced light green early spring foliage which then matured to a darker green later in summer, newer varieties are now available in amber, bronze, burgundy, purple and ruby tones. Even the newest green-leafed varieties now come dressed up with silver veins, mottling or streaks. Many new cultivars also come with exquisite ruffled foliage.

Using coral bells in the landscape provides a contrast to other plants, making your garden more interesting. Adding bronze, red, or purple foliage to the landscape brings out a new dimension of color. When these vibrant colors are placed next to green plants, your eye is drawn to the entire landscape--creating interest and depth. Most coral bells form evergreen mounds less than a foot high and across; the flowers appear 1-2' above the foliage.

Even the flower colors have benefited from breeding programs and now come in shades of bright pink, coral, red, cream, and white. The flowers provide an extra benefit to the garden by attracting hummingbirds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the garden. The spent flowers are easy to remove; you need only tug gently from the base of the stem to remove them.

While coral bells prefer partly shaded locations, these hardy plants can also tolerate full sun in milder summer regions of the U.S. They perform best in moist (but not wet) soils and need only a modest amount of feeding during the growing season. Don't neglect them completely though, because the nutrients in plant foods help bring out a deeper, darker more intense color in the foliage.

Plant them in borders or in clusters of three or more, so that their sprays of blooms will have an even more dramatic effect in the garden. Coral bells also make great container plants because they don't have an aggressive root system. Coral bells are just what you need to add some flair to your garden.

Stop by the nursery soon to see our great selection of coral bells. To whet your appetite, just click on this gallery link for a sampler of the varieties we carry.

Now is the time to plant summer season bulbs for that Summertime Sizzle!

Tuberous Begonia (tuber)
There are many varieties of begonias from single or double flower, ruffled petal flowers to camellia--or carnation-form flowers. Their colors are extremely vivid, from reds and red-orange to orange, yellow, white and hot pink; there are even bi-colored varieties. A highly versatile bulb, it is wonderful in flowerbeds, patio containers, window boxes, or hanging baskets.

Plant begonias in well-draining soil in an indirect light or dappled shade location. They also like regular watering and prefer to stay moist. Don't let them dry out. Begonias will bloom for you from summer into early fall.

Caladium (tuber)
These tropical plants are native to South America and are grown for their beautiful foliage. Caladiums are ideal border plants, lovely in window boxes and stunning when planted in a random mix in beds. The size of the heart-shaped leaves can be from 6 inches to 2 feet in length. The colors vary from green and white, green and red, white with red blotches or green veins--and some even have lavender spots.

Caladiums thrive in partial sun and shade; some varieties are more sun tolerant and can be planted in full sun or low shade conditions. They like a warm and moist atmosphere with a minimum summer temperature of 75 degrees and a minimum winter temperature of 55 degrees. If the bulbs are planted in deep shade, the green color will dominate. If planted in highly acidic soil, the darker colors will then dominate.

Crocosmia (corm)
Crocosmia, a corm from South Africa, has sword-shaped, arching foliage and red/red-orange, orange, or yellow tubular flowers in a raceme configuration. (Raceme: a long flower cluster on which individual flowers each bloom on small stalks from a common, larger, central stalk.)

Croscosmias love full sun and well-drained soil. These flowers look beautiful if clustered en masse toward the back of your perennial border, as the foliage can be as high as 5 feet. They are spreading, so from time to time, you may want to divide. This is best done immediately after flowering.

Dahlia (tuber)
This wonderful flower (a tuber) was discovered by the Spanish when they arrived in the mountains of Mexico. There are many, many flower forms, sizes and colors. Dahlias are divided into a number of types based upon the shape of the flower: cactus, decorative (large, medium, small and miniature), ball pompoms, anemone, collerettes and paeony flower shapes.

Dahlias should be planted in your garden beds and borders in rich, well-drained soil. They are heavy feeders and like to remain moist. Mulch your garden beds to hold in the moisture. Also, for best results, clip off dead flowers to encourage further blooming. By the way, the dahlia is a wonderful cut flower.

Gladiolus (corm)
Another bulb originating in South Africa, the hybrids of today offer a wide range of colors covering almost the entire color spectrum!
Most frequently grown to be a cut flower, they occupy any number of areas of our gardens. They might be given a spot in the perennial border, but often they are given their own little plot.

They require full sun and well-drained soil, and may need staking. Try staggering the bulb plantings over a period of time to give you blooms throughout the summer into the fall.

Japanese Iris (bulb--Iris ensata)
The Japanese iris is of Asian origin. This sun- and water-loving plant is an excellent marginal plant for bog water features. Japanese irises are beautiful blue bloomers with sword-like (ensata means sword) foliage.

Plant your Japanese irises in a spot that gets at least six hours of full sun and has plenty of humus-rich soil. They are heavy feeders but water is their most important requirement. Also, the Japanese iris is a rapid spreader but easy to divide if it becomes too populated.

Peony (rhizomes--Paeonia)
Peonies can be herbaceous or perennial shrubs originally from China, Japan and Europe. Flower colors range from white to pink, purple, red, and more! Some peonies have single flower forms and others a double form, all extremely beautiful.

Plant your peonies in full sun to part shade. Plant the roots so the "eyes" (nubs where new growth emerges) are facing upward. If peonies are planted too deep, they will not flower. Peonies sometimes do not flower until their second or third year after planting, but they will greatly reward your patience when they do flower. Take care to leave plenty of space between your plantings to allow for air circulation. And be sure to mulch once they are planted.

Herbaceous peonies bloom well only where they experience extended winter chill, and we certainly can offer that to this beautiful plant. These will die to the ground in late fall, only to burst back in the spring, flowering in the summer.

Tree peonies can grow up to 6 feet tall. They are also deciduous, but maintain their woody form in winter, with annual pruning in fall to control plant size. The tree peony's woody branches will bear gorgeous flowers from spring into summer.

Ranunculus (tuber)
This bulb is from the Mediterranean and Middle East regions. The flower colors range from bright yellow with pink, orange and white.

Ranunculus love sun but need a sheltered area of your garden beds (among shrubs). They like well-drained soil and regular watering. They perform best from year to year if you dig up the claw-like tuber and store in a frost-free location.

Plant the bulb with the fingers of the claw pointing downward.

Canna (rhizome)
If you love bold flower and foliage colors, cannas are for you. They will bloom spring, summer, and fall. There are many varieties and can add color pizzazz to any flower border. Although they are native to tropical and subtropical regions, you can add this wonderful plant to any perennial flower bed or border. There are a large number of varieties to pick from, giving you many choices in size, flower color, and foliage color.

Plant in full sun with well-draining soil, after the last frost in the spring. Dig up the rhizome before winter frosts and store in a dry, frost-free location.

Corn Lily (corm--Ixia)

Another contribution from South Africa, Ixia blooms from spring through summer. Flower colors range from red, violet, pink, yellow, or white with dark colored centers.

Ixia likes full sun and regular watering until the end of their bloom time. Then withhold water.

Spider Lilies (bulb--Lycorus)
These are native of China and Japan and are perfect in your gardens to give you the late summer-early fall blooms. The flowers are beautiful, with petals that often 'recurve,' or curl open and back on themselves.

Plant in sun/part shade and give regular water. The flower stem will emerge first and the foliage will follow.

Aztec Lily (large bulb--Sprekelia)
Sprekelia is in the amaryllis family and is a native of Mexico. The red flowers are simply striking and last a long time. The Aztec lily is a must in any flower border!

Plant these with the bulb at soil level in a sunny location with well-drained soil.

Calla Lily (rhizome--Zantedeschia)
The calla lily is yet another native of South Africa. This flower has been popularized by florists, and it is a wonderful addition to any shade garden. There are many varieties of calla from the common white to green with white, yellow, and pink. By the way, the most attractive part of the calla is actually not a large petal--it is a spathe.

Callas like moist shady locations. They need to be removed before winter and overwintered in a dry, frost-free location.

Preparing your soil for bulb planting is simple. Use a good amendment at a 50/50 ratio in the areas where you intend to plant your bulbs. As you dig each hole for the bulbs, add some bulb food like Whitney Farms. Following this preparation and giving your bulbs the sun/shade and watering that they require will bring you a vividly colorful impressionist summer garden. Just imagine, your gardens will have an unbelievable, sizzling 'WOW' factor.

Cindy Morgan
Green Thumb Garden Pro

Answer:

Double digging is an old garden technique of amending the soil in a flower or vegetable garden that is still as effective today as it was back in medieval Europe.

But be forewarned, double digging is a lot of work. In fact, just thinking about it makes us break out in a sweat. The term comes from "double the depth" of a normal spade or shovel blade--hence double-digging. You will also be adding one third of the depth of your spade or shovel in soil amendment to the entire garden you are digging in.

To get started, dig out the topsoil to the depth of your spade or shovel in a trench one spade wide along one end of your bed and set aside in a wheelbarrow or on a tarp.

Turn, break and aerate the next spade depth and width. Work in one third by volume of soil amendment. Blend together with turned-over soil and fill in the first trench.

Now repeat the process with another trench. Blend that soil with more soil amendment, and transfer to the previous trench. At the end of the bed, place the topsoil from the wheelbarrow or tarp over the last section, add amendment, and mix it in.

Make sure to remove any rocks or old pieces of roots as you fill in each trench.

Now--if you haven't collapsed yet--go ahead and plant your flowers. Better yet, plant a new crop of veggies. You'll need the vitamins to help you recover from the exhaustion! More seriously--if you have poor soil, double-digging is one of the most effective ways to improve the soil to a good depth--one that will allow your plant roots plenty of room to grow. Rototilling and such can help too but it doesn't improve much but the top layer of soil. Double-digging may be labor-intensive, but it works.